Dmm offset nuts 1 6 review forum Alloy Offsets protect irregular and flared cracks that regular nuts cannot. But I personally do carry offset nuts on my climbing rack. May 3, 2015 · However, DMM's have the advantage of being offset in both placement positions giving you more offset options. Every size of Alloy Offset has a robust 12kN strength rating. Other than what I can read in a book, any comments, tips or suggestions when using these pieces of pro in free climbing application only? So, the much awaited DMM Alloy Offsets, good, but in their current form far from perfect (see STOP PRESS at the end of this review). The offsets seem to be the best bang for the buck when balancing faff factor, ease of use, and cost. Nov 4, 2012 · Last weekend I had the pleasure of placing DMM offset stoppers. Offset models are also generally harder to clean because they are asymmetric - they don't want to rotate upwards Jan 4, 2019 · Hugh Banner (HB Climbing) invented the concept of offset nuts BITD. Use in conjunction with Wallnuts for compre Moved Permanently. DMM bought their assets and restarted the offset nut product lines. Offset superlight and dmm/hb offsets are handed in both orientations. Unfortunately when HB went bust, Offsets, which have a Irregular is better. 5 cam or larger, so why carry a nut that large? See full list on outdoorgearlab. . Submit Review. Reasoning: I like the half nuts but I prioritize efficiency over style, and thus rarely place nuts. When she passes on the nuts will disappear. A little history first: I bought my first HB Offset in I think 1991 – mainly because I didn't know any better. Anything larger than the big blue offset should be a 0. Rating: 100% (5) Jan 5, 2018 · Get DMM offset nuts, the are great. Time will tell. Also they seem to sink slightly better (wider offset angle?). Whether or not to get offset nuts largely depends on where you climb. Since they are more specialized nuts, offset nuts do cost a bit more. Oct 31, 2024 · Most offset climbing nuts, like the DMM Alloy Offset, the DMM Peenut, and the Black Diamond Offset don't do as well in more parallel-sided cracks, but that's okay as most people are more likely to place a cam in these places anyway. DMM HB Alloy Offset Stopper Set - Sizes 7-11 The DMM Alloy Offset Nut - Singles are individual offset nuts available from size 7 through to size 11. Dec 13, 2009 · If you are a beginner these nuts seat well and are less prone to popping out. I also recommend getting one BD #3. They also hired the woman who hand cast the bronze heads of the Brass Offsets. It was a nut, on sale, in the only climbing shop I knew at the time, so I bought it. Jun 15, 2012 · By George North - It wouldn't be right to start a review of the DMM Offsets without mentioning how they came into existence. HB and DMM are essentially right next door to each other and when he died his wife, Maureen, transferred the design to DMM to carry on the tradition. I don’t think they are totally necessary, especially if you buy a full rack of the DMM Wallnuts. I use full range sets of both (including the brass/superlights) and just size 1-3 normal nuts for small sinkers (which seem slightly less bomber on superlights). Shop for DMM Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Offsets were originally produced in both their brass micro wire, and alloy macro wire (a purely invented term!) forms by HB Climbing of Wales. Aug 13, 2022 · Offset nuts were originally manufactured by "HB" until they went out of business ~2005. You can get a confidence inspiring amount of surface contact in a lot of semi flaring placements that are common to that kind of climbing. They chose not to change the numbering on the nuts, and instead just standardized the color scheme to match their lineup. Thirdly, the wires on the BDs are about 1 to 1-1/2 inches shorter than the DMMs and all 5 are almost the same length. The fact that Wallnuts share the same color scheme as the rest of the Wild Country and DMM Offset Nut makes adding pieces to your rack a breeze. I have never touched an offset piece of pro before. One set of nuts will be fine in this area, that changes though if you go to places like Devils Tower which is mostly crack climbing. Climbing in the Adirondacks a lot (where many cracks are flaring), the offsets make protecting the climbs a lot easier. You Might Also Like: 13%. 3 - 3 cams, a set of DMM offset nuts, 6 alpine draws, a nut tool, 1 cordellete or my personal fav a 180cm dyneema sling for an anchor, and a few locking carabiners. If money is not so tight, a double rack of the above cam sizes and 8-10 alpine draws, everything else the same. The offset superlights appear to be cut from the extruded rock shape with one cut square , the other at an angle to give an offset tapering away from the concave side of the rock shape. Sep 11, 2024 · If money is tight, a single rack of . Nov 23, 2021 · 2: Wallnuts (1-7) 3: half nuts. Jun 4, 2025 · Do you need offset nuts? Offset climbing nuts make an excellent complement to a rack of nuts. I went home and ordered the #7-#9 pieces. The document has moved here. That said, they are among the most difficult to clean. Sep 21, 2022 · The same applies to the original WC half nut and the dmm halfnut. Feb 6, 2018 · greggrylls wrote: Edek Falkowski wrote: greggrylls is right about contact area. In some sense, I honestly think this makes grabbing a given BD offset a little more likely to fit in a particular crack you have your eye set on. The smaller sizes of the standard set, gold -red, find a lot of use. com Granite cracks love Dmm offsets. The wires they are mounted on are set into a recess to reduce wear, while larger sizes have holes that reduce weight. bsxweii eizgrm ecpi qar iio mpw cbtw turjng txfd evnym